APFR KYOTO

Kyoto's Nijō-dōri was once a thriving street of medicine merchants. There is something wonderfully appropriate about finding APFR here, a Japanese fragrance house originally called Apotheke Fragrance, after the German word for pharmacy. The remedies are rather more enjoyable these days, and come in the form of incense, candles and aromatic oils.

Founded in 2011 by Keita Sugasawa, APFR takes inspiration from traditional perfumery, medicinal herbs, music, art and cultures around the world. For its Kyoto flagship, opened in 2023, the brand chose a 120 year old *kyōmachiya*, just around the corner from the antique dealers of Teramachi-dōri. Architects PHYLE have treated the old townhouse with admirable restraint. Behind a black metal lattice gate, centuries old building traditions meet precise contemporary detailing. Exposed wooden beams, softly illuminated shelves and a dark washbasin beneath a strip of daylight create an interior that feels remarkably calm, even by Kyoto standards.

The real pleasure awaits upstairs, where dozens of fragrances invite a leisurely exploration. Rows of beautifully arranged bottles and scent samples sit beneath the old timber structure, while handmade glass domes by Japanese artist Masao Kosumi lend a personal touch to the otherwise immaculate displays. Each has subtle variations, a lovely detail in a place where almost nothing seems left to chance.

Start with Black Oud, one of APFR's signature scents, blending agarwood, cinnamon and black pepper into a rich, woody fragrance. From there, let your nose decide. The collection ranges from fresh, delicate compositions to warm, smoky and spicy blends, all developed and produced at APFR's own workshop in Chiba.

For all its architectural sophistication, APFR remains refreshingly approachable. The fragrances are made to be enjoyed at home, and the shop encourages visitors to find something that genuinely appeals to them. Allow yourself plenty of time upstairs. Choosing between so many beautiful scents can become surprisingly difficult, particularly when you start questioning the merits of the one you liked five minutes ago.