Flânons

Rome · Italy · To eat

Nonna Betta

Location & practical

The Art of the Artichoke

  • Roman Jewish culinary heritage.
  • A grandmother's family recipes.
  • Legendary fried artichokes.
  • €20–50 / person
  • Jewish Ghetto (Sant’Angelo)
  • Roman jewish, Roman, Italian, and Middle eastern

Long before there was a restaurant, there was Betta, sitting in her kitchen on Via del Portico d’Ottavia, trimming artichokes by the basketful. Her grandson, Umberto Pavoncello, remembers the leaves piling up around her, and Friday night dinners for twenty. Nonna Betta, his trattoria just a few doors away, is a family tribute with an excellent appetite.

The address matters. This is Rome’s old Jewish Ghetto, where centuries of confinement shaped one of the city’s most distinctive culinary traditions. The kitchen remains faithful to that heritage, serving kosher style cooking with separate menus for meat and dairy dishes. Start with carciofi alla giudia, artichokes fried open until their leaves turn wonderfully crisp while the hearts remain tender. Anthony Bourdain came specifically to try them. A sensible decision. Then there’s gricia with artichokes, a convincing reminder that Roman pasta can manage perfectly well without guanciale, and ricotta and sour cherry tart for dessert.

Inside, wrought iron lanterns and images of old Ghetto life lend character to a simple, elongated dining room. Outside, tables face the lively bustle of the neighbourhood. Expect an informal, busy trattoria, full of conversation and the comforting smell of things being fried. Betta’s kitchen once fed an extended family gathered around a crowded table. These days, the guest list is considerably longer.

  • Urban setting Jewish Ghetto (Sant’Angelo)

Good to know.

Location
Via del Portico d'Ottavia, 16, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Open map & directions
Parking
No dedicated restaurant parking is advertised. The surrounding historic centre has limited vehicle access and scarce street parking; walking, taxi or public transport is preferable.
Getting around
Best approached on foot. Buses serve Largo di Torre Argentina and the Piazza Venezia area, with a short walk through the historic centre.
Arriving
Via del Portico d’Ottavia 16, in Rome’s historic Jewish Quarter, a few steps from the Portico of Octavia. The restaurant’s published hours are 12:15–15:00 and 18:30–22:00, Monday and Wednesday to Sunday; closed Tuesday. Confirm hours around holidays.
Pets
No definitive pet policy is published; ask the restaurant before bringing a dog.
Accessibility
Third-party listings describe the restaurant as wheelchair accessible, but the precise entrance, thresholds and adapted toilet facilities have not been independently confirmed. Contact the restaurant for specific access needs.
Travelling with children
An informal, family-oriented trattoria; third-party information mentions highchairs. Check availability when booking.
Dietary options
Vegetarian

Worth knowing

  • Kosher-style is the restaurant’s own description; it does not by itself establish kosher certification. Guests who observe strict kashrut should confirm requirements with the restaurant before booking.
  • The restaurant describes two separate menus under its kosher-style approach: meat dishes on one side, fish and cheese dishes on the other. Discuss dietary restrictions and allergies directly with staff.
  • Fried Roman Jewish artichokes are the signature order, but the best artichoke season and availability vary. Ask what is freshest on the day.
  • Closed Tuesday. The official site lists lunch 12:15–15:00 and dinner 18:30–22:00 on other days; check holiday variations.
  • Indicative budget: €20–€50 per person for food and the €1.50 cover charge, excluding drinks. Based on the published à la carte menu: artichoke €6, pasta €12–€16, mains around €14–€22, desserts €7–€9. The lower end is a simple meal; the upper end allows several courses.
  • Outdoor tables face a popular, lively street; expect conversation, passers-by and a busy trattoria rather than a secluded or hushed dining experience.

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About this edit · 5 sources
  • Official menu and listed prices Dishes and prices checked here; used to calculate the indicative €20–€50 food budget per person, including cover but excluding drinks. · Read 2026-11-03
  • Online reservations Official reservation page; same-day reservations must be made by telephone. · Read 2026-11-03
  • Contact details and opening hours Official email, address, telephone and hours; closed Tuesday. · Read 2026-11-03
  • Restaurant history and cuisine The restaurant’s own positioning as kosher style and its separation of meat and fish/cheese dishes. · Read 2026-11-03
  • Practical visitor information Third-party indication of highchairs and wheelchair accessibility; details have not been independently verified. · Read 2026-11-03