Trolltunga

At Trolltunga, the famous rock almost has to compete for attention. The narrow slab projects from a wall of grey stone some 700 metres above Ringedalsvatnet, surrounded by mountain pools, snowfields and the kind of weather that can change the mood of the landscape in minutes. At 1,180 metres above sea level, it looks improbably neat, as if someone had sliced a tongue from the cliff and forgotten to remove it.

Getting there keeps the spectacle honest. From Skjeggedal, the return hike is about 27 kilometres and usually takes eight to twelve hours. Long before anyone queued for a photograph here, nineteenth century travellers were already coming to Odda for glaciers and huge waterfalls. Trolltunga itself was also known as Sylen, “the Awl”, and appeared under that name on old postcards. Nearby Ringedalsdammen, completed in 1918, tells another chapter of the valley’s history, when hydropower reshaped the landscape below.

The real twist is how recently Trolltunga became famous. Around 800 hikers came in 2010. Today, roughly 80,000 make the journey each year. In summer, there can be a queue for the classic photograph. After 27 kilometres on foot, even vanity feels fairly well earned.